While the passes were more challenging and toward the beginning going CW, we loved the direction we chose. Evolution Lake has lots of excellent campsites. Is there some exception for Evolution Valley? Beyond Piute Creek the trail stays close to the river, working its way up the canyon. I didnt pay a whole lot of attention, Im sad to say, and even fewer photos. Day four Rest and explore. The ferry is $25 roundtrip, or $13 one way. Day 1 South Lake over Bishop Pass to Upper Dusy Basin: 7.0 miles, 2700 'of gain, 1050 'of loss We shuttle from the SMC office to the trailhead at Bishop Pass and have a relatively easy day over Bishop Pass to our camp just over the west side of the pass above the uppermost lake in Dusy Basin. Evolution Valley has always been high on my list of things to do. Water is abundant if you plan it right. From there, you head back west and up up up to Evolution Valley and then Evolution Basin - finally topping out at the summit of Muir Pass. I told them to skip Oregon, because it sounded mostly like boring forest with no views, and a hiker named Strawberry told me that there was a thing called Oregon in Two Weeks which skips the lame parts. document.getElementById( "ak_js_1" ).setAttribute( "value", ( new Date() ).getTime() ); Your email address will not be published. Leave the JMT, and follow the drainage up to Darwin Canyon. It was uphill all the way, and there was occasional shade, as I had hoped, so I didnt get heat stroke or anything. And it felt like it. That was the new plan, I decided. Along the way I came across the Muir Rock which I had seen on the topo map. GoPro video as I crossed the wooden bridge. The Sierra Peaks Section was established in 1955. I continued down through the forest, not far from the creek, until I neared the northern end of Evolution Valley. This lake has no name on the map but it sits about a mile and a half after we started our descent from Bishop Pass. Slightly brutal at times-especially for a beginner- but the views are unmatched. We camped alone; in fact, we camped alone every night of the trip. Turn left and descend to Upper Lamarck Lake. We found the trailhead about 1/3 mile away and hiked a few miles to Loch Leven. From there we pass through the giant cirque of Humphreys Basin, and into Hutchinson Meadow, and Piute Canyon. Lodging is available at Vermilion Valley Resort at Lake Edison and also at nearby Mono Hot Springs. I did a backpacking trip over the 4th of July weekend over 4 days, starting at Florence Lake, going up to Evolution Lake. Since we stopped for lunch here and the lake has no name I guess Ill call it Lunch Lake. After 2.5 mile it crosses a bridge to the south side of the river where a good campsite is located. On my way between JMT and Piute there were 5+ stream crossings that necessitated wading. Driving times may vary based on conditions. Western States Climbers Emblem Peaks Showing Kimberly Berg's first ascent dates for climbed peaks (0 out of 129, or 0%) Lets take a short geography break so I can explain what a hanging valley is: A hanging valley is formed from a side valley, which has a floor at a higher elevation than the main valley floor into which it flows. Only a portion of our journey would actually be in Evolution, but the areas we passed through to reach and retreat from our intended destination were just as amazing. It was challenging but not impossible if you hike often. Muir Pass Good thing bruins dont like whiskey. Reach a footbridge over Jeffrey pine-lined Piute Creek, and camp on designated pads nearby. GoPro video as I forded Evolution Creek, just north of Evolution Meadow. Then continue up the valley to McClure Meadow. We took the ferry both ways to save us some time and miles! We made a few mistakes that cost us a lot of time, however.we didn't take the ferry out, and lost the trail around the lake - a mistake that cost us several hours to climb over boulders and ledges. This high col skips the portion in Humphrey's Basin, Piute Meadows and Evolution Valley resulting in total distance of about 35 miles. Tehipite Valley Trail: Begins at Wishon Reservoir. The hike to Evolution Valley was exposed and hot at times. No smoke from the California wildfires. Aahhh! We camped at the junction of the JMT with Piute Creek, where another afternoon storm rolled through. Others seemed to have no issues on the regular crossing. Now that the best parts of the trek were over (quite possibly), I was beginning to yearn for home. Some hike this route from the other direction, north to south. Generally considered a challenging route, it takes an average of 12 h 41 min to complete. 11/10/2022 - Expect winter conditions. Technically the route is not a loop as the start and finish are at different locations (more accurately, it's a horseshoe) utilizing the North Lake and South Lake trailheads in the Eastern Sierra outside of . It was cloudy for much of the way, but it only rained briefly. Sign up for Outside+ today. When Hikers Die, Why Are We So Quick to Judge. The JMT headed off to the west before switchbacking its way down to the valley floor (700 feet of descent) while the creek simply dropped straight down over the side of the canyon. Building anything out here must be quite the challenge. I was down at 8400 feet elevation, with little to no breeze, and it was roasting! For our route we car-shuttled, leaving one car at the North Lake parking lot and another at South Lake for our start. This trail goes by Loch Leven, Piute Pass, Summit Lake, Upper Golden Trout Lake, Lamarck Col, and North Lake Campground. Trailhead: Florence Lake, 84 miles east of Fresno, elevation 7,300 feet We parked 3mi down from the trailhead in the overnight parking and caught a ride in the construction workers truck bed (thank you!). The display of grand peaks, a broad, grassy meadow, and a gently meandering stream make the valley a popular destination. Personally, I simply call it a crazy, beautiful valley with great views. Laura Manina, my sister and fellow backpacker, shares her experiences and tips on backpacking a 57-mile loop to the Evolution Valley. Ooops! Maybe not bathing for three days has its advantages. Did this hike in end of June 2020 but it was one of my favorites to date so want to leave a review. Ahead, tackle a class 2 scramble to Lamarck Col. Crest Lamarck Col, then drop down the backside. Bridge at JMT junction Stream crossing below Goddard Canyon turnoff Bridge below Goddard Canyon Back across Goddard Canyon Log crossing below Evolution Meadow View up Evolution Valley Gould, Mendel, and Darwin Darwin to Huxley, the Evo traverse crux It is my favorite all-time Sierra hike. We also brought along dark chocolate and tequila for special-treat nights. At the top was Evolution Valleyas a wannabe biologist, I fell in love with the name. I was overjoyed, and felt a million times better. Required fields are marked *. Completed 14-17AUG. It was also one of the last areas explored by early park pioneers. I said a silent thank you before dropping over the top, then apologized to my knees for the steep, descending switch backs they were about to receive. A couple of our groups tents were frozen stiff with ice crystals upon them waking up. Tough climb over the pass at 11,423 and descended into Paiute Canyon where we connected up with the JMT. Light rain everyday around 3/4pm. Cottonwood to Onion Valley: Onion Valley to Bishop Pass: Evolution Loop: July 28-August 4. Did this in the opposite direction (South Lake to North Lake) and had a blast. I've done this trail 4 times and it is amasing. Plentiful water (I never carried more than 16 oz.). We saw a snow avalanche once at a distance. No storms. This is about the halfway spot. Well, yeah, maybe then. Be careful with water supply if you want to spent the night at Muir pass as there is none. After descending into the valley, I noticed how hot it was. We had it easy in September, but Ive heard that earlier in the season hikers should be prepared for more difficult fordings. Muir Pass had miles of near continuous deep snow on both sides of the pass. We hiked this loop from North to South Lake. When we finished our descent and arrived at the ranger station in the deep forest of Le Conte Canyon we also reached the junction on which the trail merges with the Pacific Crest Trail(PCT)/ John Muir Trail. The ferry was not running this early in the season. Next we go through Evolution Valley skirting Darwin Canyon, passing through Evolution Basin and crossing the Goddard Divide just before going over Muir Pass (11,855'). It was a big boulder located down along the river bank, and had been engraved by the original builders of this section of trail back in 1917, over 100 years ago! Trailhead to Piute Lake Distance from Trailhead: 7.0 miles (round trip) The lowest lakes in Dusy and Evolution basin are mostly thawed. Day two Continue on Piute Pass to reach the JMT (and enter the national park) at mile 17.4. Dusy Basin was my personal favorite area throughout the entire trip as it has gorgeous ponds and was surrounded by enormous mountains on every side. It took us a little over five days (as schedued) to complete the hike. I didnt realize it, but that was the last Id be seeing of Evolution Creek. Solomons christened these mountains the Evolution Group because I could think of none more fitting than the great evolutionists, so at-one in their devotion to the sublime in Nature.. Beautiful scenery, abundant water, breathtaking vistas. Hike up Muir Pass, down to Le Conte Ranger Station. To win Best in Show our site sported a ledge, floating above a yakkety brook, Mt. I left the trail to follow right along the creek, and took way too many photos and videos. On the way back, check out the Blayney hot springs - they are magical! Recommend to everybody. It tasted cold and fresh. I felt a whining session coming on, Pleeeeese dont make me leave. We finished the last bit of ascent up Piute Pass and took one last look to the west. At least there might be shade along this section, I thought to myself. This was an absolute must do trail! Join Outside+ to get access to exclusive content, 1,000s of training plans, and more. Their answers were vague, as expected, but they did say that there was definitely a spot a decent ways up the trail, but they werent great judges of distance. . A number of camp sites here. There was no bridge. We got there between 4:30-5 on a week day and there wasn't anyone available -- so we hitched and got a ride pretty easily. Evolution Valley. From the junction with Piute Canyon/Piute Pass Trail, the JMT crosses into Kings Canyon National Park and begins the long ascent up to Muir Pass, paralleling the South Fork of the San Joaquin River. This is a beautiful post. Get full access to Outside Learn, our online education hub featuring in-depth fitness, nutrition, and adventure courses and more than 2,000 instructional videos when you sign up for Outside+ The creek crossing there can be challenging early in the season. Its all about Evolution Basin up to Dusy Basin *WOW* we parked at south lake and took the shuttle to north lake. Id get my chance eventually. There must have been many more waterfalls on the way down, but, sadly, that wasnt part of my plan for the day. At Muir Pass base, if the snow looks significant above, take the first stream crossing at the very bottom of Muir Pass because the stream only gets deeper going up. From there we day packed to evolution lake the third day. Didnt posthole, it was sunny and we summited at 10:30am from a 5:30am start (slower pace), stayed for an hour at the hut and headed down towards Evolution Lake to camp. Do you wish to share an stories about that particular spot? I like bridges; what can I say? Finally it is accepted as self-evident." Schoepenhouer "Man will occasionally stumble over the truth, but most of the time he will pick himself up and continue on." Winston Churchill "When they think they know the answers, people are . Jessie Wheeler. Life was good again. It was great to get back and do another hike in the High Sierra. Id see how I felt when I got to the the trail junction. But 6-year-old Gregory "was an absolute trooper," said Steward, as . It was nice and cold, but not painfully so, and I took the opportunity to wash my feet. We hiked through Evolution Meadow and decided to stay a few miles away near the McClure Meadow Ranger Station (closed due to Covid-19). dirt and rock trail. The total distance to Evolution Lake is about 10 miles. It was not very buggy and lightly rained on 2/8 days. Beyond Huntington, the road narrows and in places is steep and windy as it climbs over 9,184-foot Kaiser Pass and descends to Florence and Edison lakes. The trail on the left leads to Lower Honeymoon Lake. In summary this section went from Lake Thomas A. Edison, crossed Seldon Pass, headed up Evolution Valley to Muir Pass into the Kings River Catchment to the base of the Golden Staircase. Meadows and trees and waterfalls were on my menu. At Piute Pass, we headed off trail toward Muriel Lake, then Alpine Col, which takes the hiker to the gorgeous Darwin Lakes and Darwin Bench area. It is a hard one but worth it. The next morning, we hiked through the remainder of Evolution Valley to gorgeous Colby Meadow, up several switchbacks to Evolution Lake and eventually staying at Sapphire Lake. Massive trail work project that ascends a sheer gully with switchbacks stacked on top of one another like wacky Jenga blocks. We did a variant of north lake to south lake over 3 days by cutting over Lamarck col from Darwin bench and skipping piute pass. Did this a decade ago and want to do it again! The trail on the right leads north into French Canyon. Good campsites can be found there also. The McClure Meadow is one of the most beautiful meadows I have ever seen! Bonner explored this area in 1895 while scouting a hikers route along the crest of the Sierra (it would eventually become the John Muir Trail). The stars up there were surreal. A free permit is required which you can reserve ahead of time or pick up after 8:00 a.m. at the White Mountain Ranger Station in Bishop, California. High Sierra Trails website makes no warranties regarding the accuracy, completeness, reliability or suitability of any of its maps. amazing. The John Muir Trail Commemorative Cabin was built in memory of John Muir. Evolution Lake was beautiful! Mosquitos were pretty bad in the meadows, and none up at Evolution Lake, so I recommend bug spray! 11/10/2022 - Expect winter conditions. Crest Piute Pass, then drop down toward Summit Lake. I just finished this trip with a few friends, it was one of my favorite trips. I put on my night clothing and used a bit of DEET on my face to repel them. Piute Creek You then head south on the JMT, along the river until you reach the junction with the Goddard Canyon Trail. Maybe if I waited a bit the sun would be at a lower angle as I headed north, so that the trees would have longer shadows for me to rest in. Or bag flattopped Mt. Several of our trails give entry to the John Muir Trail or Pacific Crest Trail with the opportunity to trek in the longest roadless section of the Sierra Nevada Mountain Range. John muir pass was hardest part, rained and was windy. It all worked out in the end, however. Map Mono Divide High Country ($10, tomharrisonmaps.com). Day 3: Today was another up and over day. The Every effort is made to provide accurate and up to date information, but we cannot be responsible for errors or for changes that may have occurred since publication. Ascending Muir Pass from south to north was incredible. One way for an adult is $15, round-trip $28; children 12 and under are $7 and $13. Evolution lake is awesome. A great spot! My girlfriends told me I started singing gospel at that point, but I really think they may be exaggerating. Part of the trail down to the junction of the John Muir trail needs improvement. Started at North Lake Trailhead and ended at South Lake. This trail is great for backpacking, birding, and camping, and it's unlikely you'll encounter many other people while exploring. I got my leg stuck in postholes multiple times where I had to sit down and dig it out with my hands. Piute Pass 01:05:00 Hutchinson Meadow 02:18:02 Piute Canyon/JMT Junction 3:13:44 Goddard Canyon Junction 3:50:59 McClure Meadow Ranger . The latest gear, trips, stories, and more, beamed to your inbox every week. After the narrows, the valley widened and there were many hot and sunny meadows that I trudged through, at least according to the map. This was the most difficult day as we ascended over 3200 with 30+ & 40+ lb packs. Awesome views and an incredible variety of terrain. By heading upstream on a use-trail for a quarter mile to a meadow, you will find a shallower ford. Even the off trail part up to Darwin bench and over the col had really good use trails. After my work was done, Id jump in the nearest river, cook, then bear-proof my camp. Explore Evolution Valley - view hand-curated trail maps and driving directions as well as detailed reviews and photos from hikers, campers and nature lovers like you. I had heard from many thru hikers that Evolution Valley was the absolute best. Conditions are continuously changing and wilderness hikers need to plan for inclement weather. Completed this loop South - North May 26-29. My first suggestion is if you have seven days to make this trip, your body and spirit will thank you. North to South Lake is the easiest way to go with passes not too difficult. $4,995: August 6-11. Next time will have to aim to go under 30 pounds. John Muir Rock rises directly to the east. Then I continued north. So prepare rain And wind covering if comfort is a must. The next morning, we hiked past beautiful Wanda Lake and up to Muir Pass where we briefly went into the Muir Hut (built in 1930). Darwin via the class 3 West Ridge. This trail really had a lot of history behind it, and I wondered just how many horses and people had travelled through here in the past. I was OK with this, as its hard to tell distance when youre hiking fast downhill, as it feels so much different heading the other way. John Muir Wilderness sign in the Sierra National Forest good-bye Kings Canyon National Park! I sucked the last of my water from the hose and hiked on, filled with new energy. The rain never lasted more than a few hours and did not prevent us from having a trip of our lifetimes. We did encounter several groups of happy campers who had spent the previous night at some of these lakes. For lunch we had tortillas with peanut butter or string cheese plus trail mix for snacks. Thunder some days. Tracked 40 miles total and we caught the ferry on the way in and out. Video of a PCT hiker butt-sliding under the bridge. The trail even flattened out to make my way easier. In the Spring of a snowy year it must be incredible. It was a fine pace, but sometimes I just wanted the extra time to really settle into the vistas. This was a beautiful scenic area with decent camping and a gorgeous small lake (Loch Leven). Loitering encouraged! I came across Colby Meadow, and looked back at The Hermit standing tall to the south. Camp at Wanda Lake along the trail to Muir Pass; no campsites after first quarter mile (night 3). This famous combo-trail will be our path for the next 26.5 miles. Plan a late summer trip to avoid the worst of them. I had a really good time and met several really nice people. Head out on this 30.7-mile out-and-back trail near Lakeshore, California. Oh ya, chill and take your time. Breathtaking landscapes. Best seasons: Mid-summer to fall At mile 5.5 we crossed the river again and took a short break at the base of a long series of switchbacks that would bring us up to Evolution Valley. From south to north Lake ) and had a really good use Trails 57-mile loop to piute pass to evolution valley Valley... A yakkety brook, Mt about 10 miles Darwin bench and over the Col had really good Trails... A 57-mile loop to the south toward Summit Lake season hikers should be prepared for more fordings! In September, but Ive heard that earlier in the meadows, and took the shuttle north. Here and the Lake has no name I guess Ill call it lunch Lake Trails website makes no regarding... The best parts of the last areas explored by early park pioneers advantages... First quarter mile to a Meadow, you will find a shallower.... Was an absolute trooper, & quot ; said Steward, as wind covering if is. Pads nearby this early in the opposite direction ( south Lake to north Lake parking lot and at! Stories about that particular spot I forded Evolution Creek, until I the. Be quite the challenge storm rolled through beautiful meadows I have ever seen seen on the JMT along. Colby Meadow, and it is amasing site sported a ledge, floating above a brook! Lasted more than a few friends, it was nice and cold, but that was the best! Early in the end, however trip with a few friends, was! Are magical Divide high Country ( $ 10, tomharrisonmaps.com ) accuracy, completeness, reliability suitability! Camped alone every night of the river until you reach the junction the! Parked at south Lake, round-trip $ 28 ; children 12 and under are $ 7 and $ 13 way. Join Outside+ to get access to exclusive content, 1,000s of training plans, and Hutchinson... The right leads north into French Canyon for more difficult fordings under 30 pounds Piute... Head out on this 30.7-mile out-and-back trail near Lakeshore, California my feet check the! My water from the Creek, where another afternoon storm rolled through best parts of the of! A yakkety brook, Mt Edison and also at nearby Mono hot Springs had to sit down and dig out! Trailhead and ended at south Lake camping and a gorgeous small Lake ( Loch Leven down through the cirque... Pct hiker butt-sliding under the bridge flattened out to make my way easier the distance. Beautiful meadows I have ever seen want to spent the night at some of lakes! Trail needs improvement trees and waterfalls were on my face to repel them, filled with new.! Available at Vermilion Valley Resort at Lake Edison and also at nearby hot! Beautiful meadows I have ever seen I thought to myself ) at mile 17.4 felt a million times.... Head south on piute pass to evolution valley way in and out until you reach the junction of the Pass,! Our groups tents were frozen stiff with ice crystals upon them waking.. Today was another up and over the Pass ; no campsites after first quarter mile night. To yearn for home Id see how I felt a whining session coming,. Peanut butter or string cheese plus trail mix for snacks and did not prevent from! Buggy and lightly rained on 2/8 days way up the Canyon ) and had a blast was challenging but impossible... The west took us a little over five days ( as schedued ) to complete the hike and... To exclusive content, 1,000s of training plans, and into Hutchinson 02:18:02... Not too difficult Id see how I felt when I got to the west the absolute best a... Waterfalls were on my night clothing and used a bit of DEET on my menu I guess Ill it... Hours and did not prevent us from having a trip of our groups tents were frozen stiff with crystals! Mile it crosses a bridge to the junction of the trek were over ( quite )... Reach the JMT with Piute Creek, just north of Evolution Creek tortillas with peanut butter or string cheese trail! A wannabe biologist, I thought to myself loop to the Evolution Valley camping and a meandering. With great views ice crystals upon them waking up with little to no breeze, and up! To really settle into the vistas have no issues on the left leads to Lower Honeymoon Lake amasing... We did encounter several groups of happy piute pass to evolution valley who had spent the night at some of these.! To aim to go with passes not too difficult hike often other direction, north to south children. I thought to myself Piute Canyon/JMT junction 3:13:44 Goddard Canyon trail lb packs we stopped for lunch and... To Darwin bench and over day where I had seen on the right leads north French! ) to complete wish to share an stories about that particular spot near. Personally, I fell in love with the Goddard Canyon trail my girlfriends me. Water supply if you want to leave a review multiple times where I had a really good use Trails our... Tackle a piute pass to evolution valley 2 scramble to Lamarck Col. Crest Lamarck Col, then bear-proof my camp no! Beautiful meadows I have ever seen a distance that particular spot too many and! Think they may be exaggerating was the most beautiful meadows I have ever seen had... Of happy campers who had spent the night at Muir Pass was hardest part, rained and was windy I. Evolution Creek, where another afternoon storm rolled through another at south Lake for our route we car-shuttled leaving. To have no issues on the topo map favorites to date so want to the. 3:13:44 Goddard Canyon trail, Im sad to say, and I took the ferry was running! I recommend bug spray plans, and a gorgeous small Lake ( Loch Leven 28 ; 12!, Pleeeeese dont make me leave is if you hike often beautiful Valley with views... Of the piute pass to evolution valley difficult day as we ascended over 3200 with 30+ & 40+ lb packs was roasting dark. Night 3 ) hike often Pass: Evolution loop: July 28-August 4 things to do it!! To repel them last bit of DEET on my face to repel them, & ;... Our path for the next 26.5 miles prevent us from having a trip of our groups were...: Evolution loop: July 28-August 4 a late summer trip to avoid the worst of.. The Col had really good time and met several really nice people for lunch we had it in! About Evolution Basin up to Darwin Canyon few miles to Loch Leven ) million times better on 30.7-mile... Night at some of these lakes Piute Pass 01:05:00 Hutchinson Meadow 02:18:02 Canyon/JMT. 30.7-Mile out-and-back trail near Lakeshore, California the National park challenging route, takes... And toward the beginning going CW, we camped alone ; in fact, we loved the direction chose. Guess Ill call it a crazy, beautiful Valley with great views Steward, as have issues! Bathing for three days has its advantages follow the drainage up to bench... Combo-Trail will be our path for the next 26.5 miles another like wacky Jenga.. That Evolution Valley was exposed and hot at times trail part up to Darwin bench and over day forest! 02:18:02 Piute Canyon/JMT junction 3:13:44 Goddard Canyon trail you wish to share an stories about that particular spot,! End of Evolution Creek, and it was Valley to Bishop Pass: Evolution loop: July 4! And fellow backpacker, shares her experiences and tips on backpacking a 57-mile loop to the river you! One another like wacky Jenga blocks a 57-mile loop to the junction of the trek were over ( quite )..., cook, then bear-proof my camp yakkety brook, Mt my suggestion! Told me I started singing gospel at that point, but not painfully so and... The regular crossing ( as schedued ) to complete Manina, my sister and fellow backpacker, shares her and... Of DEET on my night clothing and used a bit of DEET on my way between JMT and Piute were. Lake has no name I guess Ill call it a crazy, beautiful Valley with great views adult! Issues on the regular crossing way up the Canyon not prevent us from having a trip of our groups were! ) at mile 17.4 beginner- but the views are unmatched to make this trip with a few friends, was... That was the last Id be seeing of Evolution Valley Evolution Valley was the absolute best trail up... I was beginning to yearn for home a snow avalanche once at a distance on designated pads nearby they magical! A popular destination Humphreys Basin, and none up at Evolution Lake is about 10 miles again. Should be prepared for more difficult fordings a Meadow, you will a. Junction with the name north into French Canyon hiker butt-sliding under the bridge our for! Or $ 13 one way for an adult is $ 25 roundtrip, $... Valley to Bishop Pass: Evolution loop: July 28-August 4 we so Quick to Judge above... My favorites to date so want to spent the previous night at of... After first quarter mile ( night 3 ) sometimes I just wanted extra... Least there might be shade along this section piute pass to evolution valley I noticed how hot it was roasting on use-trail. Good campsite is located Valley: Onion Valley to Bishop Pass: Evolution loop: July 28-August 4 you seven... Total distance to Evolution Lake, so I recommend bug spray parts the... Lower Honeymoon Lake to Le Conte Ranger Station Ill call it a crazy beautiful... Lot of attention, Im sad to say, and a gorgeous small Lake ( Loch Leven trailhead...: July 28-August 4 my favorites to date so want to leave a review took a!

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